![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:08 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
So last few weeks have been crazy .. Figured it was time for a post .
Got the Stock Motor out of the car
Engine Bay Painted / Truck bed Liner and splatter Paint by my little brother who's a growing artist check him out at !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!
Bought my Mount kit .. Came with Engine mounts , Trans Mount , A/c Kit , Drive Shaft , Vital Liquids set , Headers from JCI (Johns Cars Inc) in Dallas .
So a recap on how much I've spent on this swap so far . Keep in mind having close friends that happen to be VERY knowledgable when it comes to LS Swaps and are currently working on a LSX Fbody camaro that should make well over 1200 on N20 .. Helps ... it doesnt help a little .. ITS A HUGE DEAL !
Fully Built T56 6 Speed Transmission , 6 Puck Spec Clutch (less than one month of use before car was totalled ) ECU and Wiring Harness for ... $ 1500 Bucks !
LM4 All Aluminum 5.3 liter that came out of a Izuzu Ascender (See Below). The motor has 105k Miles on it and the reason I went with this motor is because not only is it all aluminum which saves about 80-90 pounds on the front tires but I figure a motor coming out of a Izuzu I've never herd of was probably not driven as hard as a Camaro , Trans-Am , Corvette, Work Truck . It was most likely some old grandpas SUV of something . $ 757.40 Bucks !
Mount Kit - Headers , Engine Mounts , Trans Crossmember , Drive Shaft , A'c Kit , Vital Liquids set . $ 1700 Bucks :/
The owner of JCI aka Johns Cars , John was a HUGE ASS .. This is a grumpy old man that is not very clear on things and knows he has the best LS swap kit for the S30 Body style and he's a dick when it comes to paying him . I called to pay him over the phone with my debit card and was told he would only accept Cash or Money order .. I I live in Austin and was going to have a close friend pick up the kit the next day and wouldn't be able to get him a Money order over night or cash .. He would not discount me a single dime even tho all the prices he has are with shipping built in and I picked it up from his door step anyways .. Fuck'em .. Still the best product for what I'm doing I just don't like the guy (End Rant)
Other than that I got a Oil Cooler for $ 30
Ls1 intake manifold , Throttle body and injectors for $ 165
Total - $4152.45
Not too bad for a V8 powered Fast back that doesn't weigh shit .
At the end of the day this wouldn't be possible without great buddies . Thanks to IDROVEATRUCKONCE I have something to drive until I finish my car who BTW just got a Lemons Car and is making room for a Miata ... Lucky Bastard will have a Track Miata , A Dodge Stealth Lemons Car , and a Brand New Focus ST .. Lucky Bastard. but big thanks to him and my brothers back home in Fort Worth who stay up late getting stuff done on my car even when I'm 200 miles away ..
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:06 |
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TIL that an Izuzu had a Chevy motor.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:17 |
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I gotta prepare for the RB swap too. Being a student SUCKS ASS when you're into this hobby. Props on the oil cooler. Hate how everyone here flames every car that has it.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:21 |
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I dont car what anyone thinks .. I'm about to bolt that damn oil cooler to my bumper and have the hoses coming out and everything fucking JDM mofuckas !
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:21 |
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TIL?
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:22 |
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Today I Learned
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:23 |
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Yep .. it came in a few things .. LM4 was the code for some trailblazers between 2003-2004 and it also was in the SSR
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:27 |
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Isn't it technically just a GM vehicle with an Isuzu badge slapped on it?
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:28 |
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The duramax is built by isuzu
Isuzu is owned by GM after all, and the ascender is a rebadged envoy.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:35 |
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Please do. The fallout will be hilarious.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 11:47 |
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haha all the people who really like my car and my build would just get booty hurt . I dont see why there is hate to externally mounted Oil Cooler
![]() 02/27/2014 at 12:21 |
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I didn't know Isuzu was owned by GM either. Interesting.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 12:23 |
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Today you learned two things!
![]() 02/27/2014 at 13:30 |
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Nice update, looks like you're making serious progress. I wasn't expecting this to be so fast
![]() 02/27/2014 at 13:39 |
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Expecting the car to be fast or put together so fast ?
![]() 02/27/2014 at 13:41 |
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No I KNOW it's going to be fast, V8 + weightless shell = fast lol.
I wasn't expecting the build process to be so quick.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 13:54 |
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Oh yea .. Most builds take a year or so .. In this case I've got some close friends that really know what they are doing .. and only a limited amount of time to get this done after all I cant drive a fellow opponauts car forever and I'd really like to get back to my normal self .
I've been very short fused and stressed without my car in front of the house. I'm used to driving this thing everyday and I can not wait to get back to that .
![]() 02/27/2014 at 14:06 |
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This is true.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:11 |
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Trying to secure one of these to restore. Any idea on frame rails and pans?
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:16 |
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Well some things are obvious .. Like making sure the car you buy comes from the south of the west . anything north of Oklahoma is garunteed to be rusted to fuck . Mine has rust in both frame raily probably 4 inches or so on each side .. I'll be cutting it out and replacing it with some steel or maybe some thick aluminum . My welder is really the mastermind when it comes to making sure this car doesn't fold like a taco ...
The floor pans in my car have been patched with Fiberglass from the previous owner it sucks .. bad .. but I dont feel like dealing with it at the moment and as long as my frame rails are solid I'm not worried about the car folding in on me .
I'll end up spraying some type of bed liner on the bottom of the car to stop the leaks when it rains.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:20 |
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Thanks for responding! It's in Minnesota, so I'm probably fucked if I make the purchase.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:24 |
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Because it doesn't make sense. It makes the upgrade basically not work, means your oil system is exposed, and ruins the lines/aero of the vehicle (not that an S30 had aero to start with).
In order for them to work they need to be somewhere air is being directed to them and through them at velocity. Just exposed on the front of the car the air simply bubbles around them and allows virtually no pass through, let alone generating no pass through.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:26 |
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I figure more air moving through the cooler would help engine temps .. How do you see it differently casper ?
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:27 |
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no probably about it ..
YOUR FUCKED ! if you buy a car around your area .. save up some money for a car .. and make a road trip out of going to get it . There are a few down here in Texas and one right now on the east side of Austin that looks to be pretty decent .
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:30 |
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Yeah, I was eyeing some Texas cars. Probably a wise choice, over an impulsive purchase. I'm only trying to spend $2,500, so maybe further south is my best bet. I don't live in Minnesota, so Texas is a bit closer to me also.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:32 |
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I got my car for 2600 bucks as a daily driver .. Fixed the A/c the first week I got it and put new seats in it the second week lol
The kid was asking 4700 and I talked him all the way down to 2600 best Haggle of my life . so far.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:34 |
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Wow, you got a good deal, this guy seems stuck on $2,000, and I'm still trying to convince him that it's currently a piece of shit. I'm not going to buy the Mn one anyways.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 17:56 |
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That's correct, but that's not what happens placing it outside the vehicle body work. The reason the radiator is set behind an shaped inlet is to focus and direct airflow, while creating a low pressure zone for the air to pass into. By placing a flat radiator system like an oil cooler flush against body work at a point that is a bit of a dead zone generally means you aren't flowing air, it's just more or less moving randomly.
The leading edge of the vehicle, in very basic terms, piles the air up until it has an escape route. In order to get air to pass through something like a radiator or aero feature, you need to get the air moving to a point of lower pressure. The principle is a bit more complicated than that, especially when discussing venturi tunnels. Basically without somewhere for the air to go, it's not going through your oil cooler and without body work forcing it to a point, it's much easier for it to pass around the device rather than pass through even if there was.
Here's something to look at would be pages like this:
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_aerodyn…
![]() 02/27/2014 at 19:39 |
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I would agree with you on airflow, but, with an oil cooler, you generally don't need it in the most optimal place to get good enough efficiency out of it. Some air is definitely flowing through it, and it is probably enough....
Besides that...JDM yo!
Don't argue with the sideways Hako:
![]() 02/27/2014 at 19:45 |
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You might as well not have it if you aren't looking to do anything except add oil volume. The fact is that I do not like poser parts, that's just my preference. I see them as a waste of time, money, and an insult when people try to pass them off as an upgrade or performance item.
The entire premise of the device is to have air pass through it and it's being installed in a way to make that essentially not happen. It's like buying a cupcake and then sitting on it...
![]() 02/27/2014 at 19:53 |
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Well, I'm saying that from a race car build perspective. A lot of times it's better to mount your radiator and intercooler optimally, and sacrifice airflow with the oil cooler to make your packaging work. Oil coolers actually are really efficient at heat transfer, and it doesn't take much air even just going over/around it to make a difference.
I think the exact reasons the early Japanese racers did it is lost to time and translation...It was really just a joke and a reason to post a Hako though.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 20:00 |
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Where do you think the heat is going? The only way it can dissipate heat is with air. Sacrificing air flow to an oil cooler and installing it incorrectly are two different things. A lot of oil coolers are installed to the side of the rad or behind it, but still work many times more effectively than just mounting on a body panel flush out of an air path.
Old school oil cooler installs were not installed obtusely. Usually they cut a hole behind them in order to cause the air entering the radiator higher up to draw air through the oil cooler and up to the radiator. They usually used a lower lip to force the air up, then cut holes behind the cooler for the air to enter. Of course, they also didn't understand aerodynamics back then, so they can be forgiven for that a bit.
Now, the proper way to do it, knowing modern aerodynamics is to install it behind a body panel that is directing air. Either like this behind a side duct:
or like this where you are scavenging a channel:
![]() 02/27/2014 at 20:15 |
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So we agree then?
I don't disagree hanging it out of the airflow is the wrong thing to do. I'm saying oil coolers are very efficient, and can do a good job with less than optimal placement. Unless you mounted it absolutely flush to a body panel (never seen anybody do that) you'll get some air flowing through it, and around it. It's all metal. Every surface is conducting heat away.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 20:20 |
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The problem is that in order to move heat away it needs air to pass through it. It is losing something like 95% of it's efficiency by not passing air through it at any significant velocity... which is my point. There is literally no good reason to be doing it like that. It's no different than putting a walmart spoiler on the trunk of a Civic.
In both those examples you probably have at least 300% efficiency gains over the other method... probably more. Even tucked against the radiator it will be giving you more efficient heat transfer, plus it gets the benefit of the fan at lower speeds.
There are right ways of doing things that are just as easy or easier than the wrong way. That's the point we are not in agreement. You are trying to defend doing something deliberately wrong because it might almost do something right... when they could have done it any other way and gained many fold efficiency.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 20:28 |
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Seriously, I made a joke...to post a Hako...it's ok.
![]() 02/27/2014 at 20:38 |
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The problem is there are a whole lot of people who don't understand that doing things like bolting an oil cooler to their front bumper because they A) think it looks cool or B) actually works.
I'm not really targeting it you, I just hate people posting inaccurate information for people to stumble across so I need to make sure there is good information smothering it.
![]() 02/28/2014 at 13:01 |
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I didn't say anything inaccurate. You don't need hurricane force winds to make an oil cooler work. You just need a little air moving...just a little will do a lot.
And you know what, Its totally ok if someone wants to do something to be cool. Or because they like the way it looks. I personally have a problem when people get all judgmental because they didn't do it the way they think is right. It's really no big deal, and this should all be taken a lot less seriously.
![]() 02/28/2014 at 13:59 |
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People can do anything they want, they just shouldn't expect acceptance. Just because you do something doesn't mean I won't point and laugh at you. That's how life works and is the basics of social regulation. My method is to educate the first time, ridicule the second. At that point either the person is comfortable enough with their decision to just own it or they will realize their mistake and fix it.
![]() 02/28/2014 at 14:05 |
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You keep pointing and laughing. I'll keep enjoying my hobby.
![]() 02/28/2014 at 14:07 |
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That would be option A.
![]() 02/28/2014 at 14:07 |
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Cool. Glad we worked that out. Internet hero saves the day!